Montag, 12. Dezember 2011

Eine indische Hochzeit

Die Sterne stehen gut, es ist Hochzeitssaison in Indien. Und auch wir waren dabei, auf einer der bunten, quirligen Feiern, die für die Inder eines der wichtigsten Ereignisse ihres Lebens sein soll.

Früh morgens stehen wir auf, machen uns fertig und packen unsere Sachen. Die Hochzeit soll spät abends – so wurde es von einem Priester anhand der Sternzeichen des Brautpaares bestimmt – im Dorf unserer Mentorin stattfinden. Vorher sind wir noch zum Hochzeitslunch eingeladen, das ist alles, was wir wissen.

Um die Mittagszeit gehen wir also in den örtlichen Tempel, eine große und verwinkelte Anlage. Dort begegnen wir bereits kurz dem Brautpaar, das sich schüchtern am kleinen Finger hält und gute Wünsche entgegennimmt – ihre Hochzeit ist arrangiert und sie kennen sich jetzt seit drei Monaten. Die Braut ist bereits reich geschmückt, trägt ein auffälliges gelbes Gewand und hat das für Indien typische Braut-Mehendi (Henna) an den Händen. Auch ihr Zukünftiger hat lackierte Nägel und ein traditionelles Mehendi auf den Händen, sein Outfit ist allerdings noch sehr leger und lässt nicht vermuten, dass er heute seinen großen Tag hat– er trägt eine Patchwork Hose und ein Holzfällerhemd.



Wir gehen in einen Innenhof des Tempels, wo es das Essen geben soll und erschrecken kurz. Es ist dreckig, streunende Hunde kämpfen um Essensreste und es sieht alles andere als festlich aus. Auch die Halle, in die wir dann kommen schockt uns. Keine Dekoration, keine Farben, kein festliches Buffet anstatt dessen: Lehmboden, dreckige Wände, abgegessene Teller auf dem Boden und dazwischen ebenfalls immer wieder Hunde auf der Suche nach herumliegendem Essen. Die Leute stehen zum Essen oder sitzen auf dem nackten Boden. Einzig am Ende der Halle und am Eingang sind Tische aufgebaut. Auf einem davon stehen große Töpfe mit Essen, das man auf Metallteller aufgetan bekommt. Am anderen werden Spenden an das Brautpaar eingesammelt und fein säuberlich dokumentiert.





Das Essen ist dann aber trotzdem sehr gut und nachdem wir uns ein bisschen an die außergewöhnliche Kulisse gewöhnt haben, können wir es auch richtig genießen.

Mittlerweile ist es Nachmittag und wir haben bis zur nächsten Zeremonie am frühen Abend ein wenig Zeit die Anlage zu besichtigen und uns auszuruhen. Wir laufen hinunter zu einem Staudamm, vorbei an Palmen und bunt bemalten Tempelgebäuden. Die Sonne scheint und wir genießen die Zeit mit der Familie unserer Mentorin.

Ein kleiner Teil der Tempelanlage


Ein Teil der Familie unserer Mentorin Uma...

Eine Durga Statue am Damm in der Nähe des Tempels



Nach dieser kurzen Pause kehren wir in die Tempelanlage zurück. Es ist bereits dunkel und wir folgen den Stimmen, die uns zu einem kleinen Gebäude führen. Der Vorhof ist überdacht, dort sitzen zwischen 75 und 100 Menschen in bunten Gewändern und auffälligem Schmuck und schauen in die Mitte, wo das Brautpaar und dessen Eltern auf dem Boden sitzen und verschiedene Rituale durchführen, die wir nicht verstehen und die uns auch niemand erklären kann – „It’s tradition“.

Das Einzige, was wir herausfinden ist, dass dies nicht die eigentliche Hochzeit ist, sondern hier nur der Bräutigam verschiedene Geschenke erhält, nachdem er und die Braut eine Art „Versteckspiel“ gespielt haben, in dessen Verlauf die Braut ihren Zukünftigen suchen muss.
Die Braut ist mittlerweile noch reicher geschmückt, trägt schwere Goldketten, zahlreiche Armreife und einen neuen festlichen Sari in rot und blau. Und auch er ist mittlerweile festlich gekleidet, in einem von oben bis unten verzierten, hellblauen Oberteil.

Die Hand- und Fußbemalung des Bräutigams
Wir gehen nach vorne in die Nähe des Eingangs zum Tempel, wo wir uns hinsetzen und uns freuen, dass wir so einen guten Blick auf das Geschehen haben:
Vor den beiden liegen Räucherstäbchen, Bananen, Reis, Kleidung, Süßigkeiten und rote und gelbe Pulver. Abwechselnd streuen sie das Pulver auf die Bananen, füttern sich mit Süßigkeiten oder überreichen sich Schmuck. Direkt neben Ihnen sitzt ein Priester und singt oder gibt den Beiden Anweisungen.



Aber er ist nicht der Einzige, der auf sie einredet. Vor ihnen stehen drei Männer. Einer davon hält einen Scheinwerfer, ein anderer eine Kamera und der dritte einen Foto. Auch von Ihnen bekommen sie immer wieder gesagt, was sie zu tun haben.
Die Fotographen (die fast mehr zu sagen hatten, als der Priester)
Allgemein ist die Stimmung zwar sehr fröhlich und ausgelassen, aber es scheint, dass die Zuschauer nicht wirklich auf das Geschehen konzentriert sind. Sie schauen sich um, reden miteinander oder stehen einfach auf. Als am Rand des Platzes Geschenke ausgeteilt werden springen alle auf und drängen sich um die Säcke, um auch etwas zu ergattern. Die Einzigen, die bis am Ende im Schneidersitz auf dem Boden sitzen, sind die Braut und der Bräutigam.
Dort hinten in der Ecke wurden Geschenke verteilt. Da hat sich dann wirklich gar niemand mehr für die Zeremonie interessiert!



Nachdem auch sie aufgestanden sind gibt es erneut Essen in der großen, nackten Halle, die wir schon vom Mittagessen kennen. Anschließend bleibt wenig Zeit, wir müssen uns für die eigentliche Hochzeitszeremonie umziehen, die kurz darauf beginnt.

Als wir in unseren Saris zurück zum Tempel kommen, sind wir erneut erstaunt. Das Brautpaar sitzt mal wieder auf dem Boden unter einem mit Blumen und Donald Duck Handtuch verzierten Pavillon, vor ihnen genau die gleichen Utensilien, wie zuvor. Die Menschen um sie herum stehen, sitzen oder liegen auf dem Boden, reden oder schlafen. Einzig die drei Männer mit den Kameras und die zwei Priester widmen sich immer noch mit voller Konzentration den Beiden, wie sie Pulver mahlen,  dieses streuen und sich gegenseitig Reis überschütten. Am Ende bekommt die Braut von der Schwester des Bräutigams Fußringe, die hier nur verheiratete Frauen tragen, angesteckt und die frisch Verheirateten berühren sich gegenseitig mit den Füßen.

Die Beiden "Priester"





Damit ist die Hochzeit beendet und die Gesellschaft verteilt sich langsam in die warme Nacht. Auch wir machen uns auf den Heimweg und müssen immer noch schmunzeln über diese fröhliche, farbenfrohe, chaotische Hochzeit, die wie fast alles in Indien, ganz anders war, als wir sie uns vorgestellt haben.
Damit wünschen wir Euch jetzt viele warme, sonnige, bunte und chaotische - oder kurz: indische - Grüße ins kalte Deutschland.

Lena und Annik

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